Cathedral of Junk: It Still Stands

"You're just visiting me at my house. I'm just showing you my artwork in my backyard."

I took a different approach this week.

While looking for the address for my newest place to explore, I was inundated with google-search articles about the failed plight to save the Cathedral of Junk from being dismantled after a heated battle with city building codes.  The more I read, I became infuriated. More than anything, I was livid that I would not be able to experience this art project, one man's creative passion.

It has been dismantled, I read. A shadow of its former self. A heartbreaking loss to artists and art-lovers everywhere. A hurt to Austin.

The Cathedral is something that represents the best of Austin, I had read. Something unique, a true "hidden treasure" in Austin that helped ignite the now ridiculous motto, "Keep Austin Weird," that has become a lame parody of what makes Austin special.

Something happened, though. An agreement made, a compromise. And the Cathedral, while different, well, it still stands.

Located in an unassuming neighborhood off of South Congress and St. Elmo Street, you will find something that is truly magnificent and awe-inspiring. The Cathedral of Junk, a testament to art, passion, and fighting for something, represents what so many people love about this city.

I was overwhelmed with the experience. There were so many things to look at and admire. I could be lost there for hours and come back days later with more to explore. It is truly the most unique place I have been in Austin, and it made me very happy.

I can only provide pictures, though they can do no justice. These are pieces that caught my attention.

 

(Front of the house)

The Cathedral of Junk:

(Second Story)

("The Throne")

(Quailman!)

(The staircase in progress)

(One of my favorite parts)

Before embarking on the Cathedral, I decided that I would not meet a curious admirer like myself. I wanted to meet the artist, the creator, and hear his story. 

Vincent Hannemann 

"Junk King" is tattooed across his knuckles, and he stood with a beer in his hand, dressed in a muscle shirt and Spiderman swim trunks, assuring me that the rope and stairs were very safe to climb onto the second story. 

He is a man in his backyard, showing us around. 

Vincent moved to Austin in 1989 from Santa Fe. His then-wife's career garnered a move to a bigger city, and they had what he calls "a tenuous connection" to Austin through his mother. 

What keeps him in Austin? The Cathedral. 

"I guess my life and the Cathedral have become interwoven," he said.

It was that statement, while taking an overview glance of the intricate Cathedral, that it hit me. They made him dismantle his life. 

"When they made you take it down... that must have been horrible," I said, quite lamely.

"I was pissed off," he said. "It was heartache. I felt betrayed."

He then told me about the massive efforts the community put forth to help save this part of Austin. There were 200 volunteers, people who brought sandwiches for the volunteers, a benefit at Spiderhouse Cafe, three lawyers, two engineers, and an architect that volunteered their time and aid.

The Cathedral has been re-opened for almost a year, and Vincent remarks that it is the people like me, those "people who are really determined to get here" that find a way into the Cathedral despite the former dismantle. 

Vincent works on the Cathedral in the mornings, as it is the only time he has to create before showing people the Cathedral all day. There are no hours of operation, but appointments can be made for the weekdays, and the Cathedral is closed at sunset. 

"It's not a business," he said. "You're just visiting me at my house. I'm just showing you my artwork in my backyard. It's not a business. I'm not selling anything."

Vincent expects about 10,000 visitors this year, and that is with most people assuming it has been dismantled. 

"That part hangs over my head," he said. With more visitors, he explains, "the Cathedral is only going to increase, and I'm going to have more issues with the city."  

But still, the story wrapped in the structure flows deep. A beloved piece of Austin, it started as free-standing structures, and grew from there. 

It is fueled through donations, as people are free to leave their "junk" on his doorstep. 

His favorite part of the Cathedral? "The atrium. I feel like it's my consolation prize."

Vincent enjoys going to the Greenbelt to take his dog and get away from the city for awhile to someplace "nice and quiet," and he enjoys swimming somewhere by the river. 

Vincent's Favorite Restaurant:

Torchy's Tacos

Several locations

The fried avocado taco. "So ridiculously good."

Austin's Hidden Treasure:

Abandoned miniature golf course 

South of 1500 Pleasant Valley

"Definitely creepy." A stop on the Austin Art Yard Tour.

Next week, Vincent sends me to the Museum of Natural and Artificial Ephemerata.

Thank you for letting me into your yard. 

Home Slice: Pizza and the Brilliance of South Congress

"The city promotes a sense of individuality."

I like pizza--obviously. I had never been exposed to some really exceptional pizza or even something famous and regional, but I as I thought, pizza is pizza.

I was wrong.

Located on South Congress, Home Slice is a dine-in New York-style pizzeria with a take-out slice stand next door.

(Dine-in)

(Take-out)

I arrived at an appropriate time for dinner on Friday evening. I wanted to eat at the dine-in pizzeria: 

But at an hour and a half wait, opted for the dining area inside the slice stand:

The atmosphere is pretty much anything you can imagine a pizzeria would be on a Friday evening, especially on mustache night, where a mustache, real or drawn, will merit a ten percent discount--light-hearted and fun, filled with hungry people anticipating an amazing slice of pizza. 

As for the pizza--it's good. It's really good. 

As my friend described the amazing New York-style pizza, it is thin, crunchy, and chewy. A large slice to be folded in half, served on the perfect, thin paper plate. It is delicious.

(Margherita) 

Home Slice offers pizza by the slice and as an entire pie. It was recommended to me to also get garlic knots, which are buttery and delicious, complete with marinara sauce. 

Slices range from $3.00 to $3.50, and garlic knots are $3.50.

Located in the deceptively humble neighborhood of trailers, Home Slice is surrounded by the beauty of the Austin skyline and the distinctive and exciting energy of South Congress. 

(View from South Congress)

(The Hearse Limo)

(Jo's Coffee)

Home Slice is filling, tasty, and something to be craved. I will be returning. Often.  

While eating my dinner, I noticed an elaborate, drawn-on mustache, and met a friendly couple.

"Team Skanks"

They preferred to be called "Team Skanks," an inside play on their last names, Skinner and Franks.

Team Skanks are 26 years old and have lived in Austin for a year and a half. They say that "friends and a job" brought them to Austin, and that the same friends and the "quirkiness" of the city keep them here.  

Franks said, "The city promotes a sense of individuality," and explained that unlike other cities, in Austin, the "norm" is not prized. "The band is as wide as possible."

They explained that they came to Home Slice because "we think it's the best pizza." Skinner added, "I crave it."

They enjoy going to movies, into town, down Congress, swimming at the community pool, and going to the gun range. They've been to the wiener festival, Eyore's (from Winnie the Pooh) Birthday Party, and enjoy experiencing "quirky Austin things."

Franks said, "I butcher the hell out of metaphors," the worst of which was comparing the way a girl walked to a freshly born horse. "They don't make any sense," Skinner said with a smile.

Skinner enjoys the presence of the "lone star" outside the Bob Bullock theater.

The two met their freshman year in college, and Skinner explained that she had a crush on his roommate. They both smiled. They are now engaged.  

Team Skanks favorite restaurant:

Vino Vino

4119 Guadalupe Street

A wine bar and restaurant that is "a fancier dinner that is not super expensive."

Austin's Hidden Treasure:

Cathedral of Junk

4422 Lareina Drive

Next week, Team Skanks send me to the Cathedral of Junk.

Barbarella: Insecurities Not Permitted

"It's the only place I'd live in Texas."

I was sent to Barbarella to dance. And dance I did.

I should probably preface this post by saying that I don't dance. In almost every circumstance I find myself with an opportunity to dance, I am the one standing awkwardly with my arms wrapped around me, completely still.

But there was something about the atmosphere in Barbarella that let me loose.

Located on 7th and Red River, Barbarella is hidden under a small neon sign in a window.

I have been told that Barbarella does not really "get going" until after 11, and that Thursdays and Saturdays are the best nights. I chose Saturday and arrived sometime between 10:30 and 11:00. 

There were not many people inside. Instead, steady dance music not found within the top 40, which was refreshing, and strobe lights. 

There are several bars within Barbarella, two downstairs and one upstairs, so each is never suffocating with people cramming for a drink, and there are water coolers and cups conveniently positioned in the corners by the bars. 

I began to worry after a while because there were still no people on the dance floor. 

I wanted to slip into the crowd and disappear to dance and get a feel for Barbarella. But after looking at an empty dance floor and lonely strobe light, decided that my friend and I would dance, even if it was only us. 

Within minutes, we were joined by some awesome ladies, and a few minutes later, more people joined. 

It was during these early stages, while the floor was still spacious, that I began to love Barbarella. The crowd felt inviting, accepting, and void of anything self-conscious. It was amazing, and the crowd slowly continued to build. 

This was the crowd right before I left:

(No flash)

(Flash)

And there was a long line of people outside waiting to get in. 

Before I discovered hidden dancing bravely, I grabbed some water at the bar and met a really friendly stranger.

Evita, "like the movie with Madonna," and friend

Evita has lived in Austin for four years and said that in addition to the eclectic music and "new people that I always meet," that keep her here, she moved to Austin because "It's the only place in Texas I'd ever live." 

I second that. 

Some of her favorite activities include going to Barton Springs, mountain biking in Walnut Creek Park, rock climbing at the Greenbelt, and Thursday night social bike rides through Social Cycling Austin. The latter of which is a large group bike ride that can draw up to 300 social cyclists in one outing. 

Evita said that she came to Barbarella because "I wanted to dance tonight," and explained that Thursdays at Barbarella offer an "awesome dance party."

She said that she likes to drink a beer when she is hung over, and recommends The Flying Saucer, located inside of The Triangle, for some good draught beer. 

Evita's Restaurant Recommendation:

G'Raj Mahal Cafe

91 Red River

"Food is phenomenal, the atmosphere is great, it's BYOB, and has a glow in the dark serpent."

Austin's Hidden Treasure:

Hamilton Pool

24300 Hamilton Pool Road

Dripping Springs

"Secluded from the city." "Another natural pool we're able to enjoy."

Evita sends me to Home Slice and the trailers of South Congress for some pizza.